top of page
Writer's pictureAquascapeGuide

Dialing in your programmable LED aquarium light.

Updated: Jul 11, 2023


There are a lot of aquarium lights on the market these days that allow us to change the spectrum and give us full control over each LED color. But what are the best settings for plant growth? We're going to cover that in this post.


An article published by Michigan State University titled "Green light: Is it important for plant growth?", found that "Greenlight is considered the least efficient wavelength in the visible spectrum for photosynthesis, but it is still useful in photosynthesis and regulates plant architecture." So that leads me to think, out of all the LED colors, which colored LEDs are best for plant growth? What should be turning up and down on our lights to maximize plant growth. Well, the short answer is red LEDs and super red LEDs... but let's talk about wavelengths real quick.

There was a hypothesis that plants don't use green light to photosynthesize, they reflect it

back at us, hence why plants look green. But plants will use any color with the 300-800nm wavelength as shown in this graph. The nice thing about being able to control a light is we can change the curve in this spectrum to give our plants the optimum curve for growth. Here is what they found out in their tests.


What did they find?

"Plants grown with 50 percent green and 50 percent red light were approximately 25 percent shorter than those grown under only red light, but approximately 50 percent taller than all plants grown under more than 25 percent blue light (Photo 2). Therefore, blue light suppressed extension growth more than green light in an enclosed environment. Twenty-five percent green light could substitute for the same percentage of blue light without affecting fresh weight. However, the electrical efficiency of the green LEDs was much lower than that of blue LEDs

They go on to comment that "One potential advantage of including green in a light spectrum is to reduce eye strain of employees. Under monochromatic, or sometimes two colors of light such as blue and red, plants may not appear their typical color, which could make noticing nutritional, disease or insect pest issues difficult. Another potential advantage of green light is that it can penetrate a canopy better than other wavebands of light. It’s possible that with better canopy penetration, lower leaves will continue to photosynthesize, leading to less loss of the lower leaves."


So how should we set up our programmable aquarium lights?

Well first of all, if you have NOT purchased an aquarium light yet, find a light with as many different LED colors as possible that we can program. For a medium, 80 PAR light, we really like the Finnex Planted+ 24-7 ALC model. If you want a high PAR light, like around 110 PAR, Fluval's Fresh and Planted 3.0 light is great. The only downside to the Fluval 3.0 is that there are no green LEDs, just red, blue and white... but the white lights will toss out some green within their spectrum, so we're ok with overlooking this for now.


So now that you have a light you can program, kick the reds, super reds, warm whites, and/or whites up to the highest PAR value your tank can handle... more on this "your tank can handle" stuff later. If you have green LEDs, bring those up to around half of where your reds and white are at. Now your aquarium is going to look really redish, or warm, and if you want to balance that out or make it look less warm and more neutral, slowly introduce blue LEDs back in until you are satisfied with the color of the light being produced. Most of the time we've found that around 15% brightness of where your reds and whites are at, is where the tank starts to look less warm, and more of a neutral white! Blue LEDs are known to cause algae issues in excess and even will make plants grow more compact, so we want to limit the amount of light blue LEDs throw to simply balance the warm color of the red and white LEDs. And wha-la! Your aquarium light is all dialed in.


Now we can't just go around hitting all of our tanks with 110PAR, as some tanks are designed to be low-energy tanks. Like, those that are not running CO2, or have all slow-growing plants like Anubis, Java ferns, buce, etc. So for balancing purposes, if you have the Fluval 3.0, and you're tank should only be at around 60PAR, because you have slow-growing plants, only raise your red LEDs, and/or whites a little more than halfway, because a little more than half of a 110 PAR light would put us around 60PAR. Remember, an excess of light can lead to algae, so we want a little less, than a little too much. Then bring in greens if you have them to 50% of half, which is 25%, and then blue can sit around 15% of that, which would only be around 7% brightness. Make sense? Reds and white all the way up to the desired PAR, green halfway to where red and whites are at, and blue around 10-15% of that.


Here is what these curves would look like. Now if you don't have individual control over RGB leds, do the best you can with what you have. If all you have is white and blues, crank up the whites and turn down the blues. If all you have is white, reds and blues, do the same thing... crank up the white and reds, turning down the blues. Again, do the best you can with what you have! Or, think about upgrading your light to something that gives you more control.

Best setting for a programable LED light.
Download me and share with others!

Final thoughts.

Don't use the ramp up and down setting on the lights. If you don't want to scare your fish by having the lights abruptly come on, dim the lights up and down as fast as the light will allow, without exceeding a 30-minute ramp. Plants don't need a sunrise and sunset each day. This is just a gimmick that we as humans have romanticized. We've actually see it cause more harm than good as it extends the light cycles keeping the lights on for longer than they should be, creating excess light and algae. We recommend having the lights turn right on, to the desired PAR, for an 8-hour photoperiod, then turning them off. With all the nutrients and CO2 that we recommend providing to your plants, they are going to be super happy and eager to growing right when the lights turn on.


Source:

Green light: Is it important for plant growth? - Michigan State University


Toward an optimal spectral quality for plant growth and development: The importance of radiation capture - Utah State University

https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/psc_facpub/763/

15,941 views13 comments

13 Comments


Christina
Christina
Nov 10, 2023

I just about finished cycling my tank that has aquasoil . 6 weeks in and still have nitrites about 4 ppm, finally a couple days ago ammonia dropped to 0 . It’s fully stocked and is running C02. Two hours before the lights come on and it shuts off when the lights go off. I also am using an air stone from the time lights and C02 go off until C02 comes back on in the morning . So, no air when C02 is in of course . My lights are set from 12pm - 6 pm with a 30 minute ramp up and down time on either side. I’m using chihiros WRGB2pro 60 on my 24x17x17 tall tank .…

Like

Eric Watz
Eric Watz
Feb 06, 2023

New aquarium owner question, can you please expand on why turning direct on/off is preferred vs. ramping? Have a Fluval Plant Spectrum 3.0 in a 60gal planted tank. Thanks

Like
AquascapeGuide
AquascapeGuide
Sep 18, 2023
Replying to

Eric! Sorry we missed your comment... fail... but I'll explain for others to read. Ramping is fine, but some ramp for WAY too long. Like they have a 8 hour full intensity photoperiod, and a 2 ramp on either side. So 12 hours of light, but 8 of it is full intensity. I just think its too much light and harder to balance. I do like the idea of a small ramp as the lights kicking right on can scare some fish, but don't want to it to mess with the system too much. If you light can ramp, I suggest to make the ramp quick, and keep it within the 8 hour photoperiod. I have a ONF Flat Nano+…


Like

Jeremiah Easley
Nov 19, 2022

This is incredible info Ive been looking for some help on this! I have a Nicrew Led Plus light which I think is around 90 par at full blast. I currently have the whites all the way up with blues all the way down because I was fighting algae on my Hornwort. I’m only growing Hornwort in this tank so do you think thats a pretty good way of doing it? The light also has reds but I have no control of the red intensity it stays at about the same level As I have the whites right now. I also am only running them 6 hours a day.

Like
AquascapeGuide
AquascapeGuide
Nov 22, 2022
Replying to

Jeremiah! Thanks for reaching out and sorry it too us so long to respond. We've been busying preparing for our Black Friday sale ;) We're glad this article was able to help you. I think cranking down the blue LEDs is a good call. You don't need them off per say, but we just need very little of that part of the spectrum as the University of Michigan found. And from a quick google search, Nicrew is saying that your light outputs a PAR of 70 at 12", which is pretty low but ok for a non-Co2 injected tank. Once one starts to push PAR above 80 without Co2, you can definitely get into algae issue. Furthermore, all algae's have…



Like

eng.haidory
Apr 12, 2022

thanks for all

i have chihiros wrgb 2 with 6 hour lighting but always i have algea i think because i used all light in 100%

what shold i choose percentage now for red green blue

i have multy different type of plants fast and slow grow with monte carlo carpet also..

thank again

Like
Christina
Christina
Oct 26, 2023
Replying to

I have a 24 x17x17 brand new tank that I’m on 3 weeks into cycling. I’m going g to plant soon and have the same WRGB2 pri light and I set it for the % you mentioned above and for 6 hours of full light with a ramp up of an extra 30 minutes on either side so a total of 7 hours. I’m doing the same as the other person here in regards to plants and carpeting is this optimal for me too the same settings , but a 7 hour light cycle with 30 minute ramp up in either side.

Like

This is a nice guide! I have a light that only has red, green, blue, and UV. With the blue set to just 15% of the red, it looks very warm, I suppose because there are no white LEDs. I need to crank up the blue to more than 15% to make it less warm? However I'm not sure up to what percentage I should be adjusting it while still getting the same effects.

Like
Replying to

I'm going to try that! Ty

Like
bottom of page